Cluny: An Impressive Abbey

September 21, Monday -- We began with a trip to the Carrefour hypermarché to buy some essentials for the house including wine.  The supermarket has a vast selection of both local and French wines, at least two aisles worth. 

But, on the way, in Volnay, we saw a large, photogenic wine press sitting in a vineyard. We all posed for a picture, and then we began to examine the vines.  It looked like there were still grapes on the vines, although we later learned that the first harvest (vendange) had already been taken place about a week before.  Still, the vines have their leaves and look healthy. We continued through Meursault, looking for a tasting venue.  But the town seemed shut down and sealed up.

We continued on to Puligny-Montrachet, a slightly larger village.  It was however equally dedicated to wine and vineyards, with a large bronze statue in the town square to celebrate the grape harvest.  Puligny-Montrachet features the narrow winding and streets and the sandy brown one- and two-story farm buildings so characteristic of this area.

It being even on the late side for lunch, we examined a restaurant just off the square.  Then our gaze fell on a nice looking building a block away.  It turned out to be the Hotel Le Montrachet, but we did not know that at the time.  We asked if the restaurant had an outdoor area and were told no.  We then asked if there would be space inside for four.  The clerk agreed to go check, and came back with a positive answer.  We had a memorable luncheon, selecting the modest September menu at 32 euros -- cream soup with mushrooms, veal breast with cabbage, pike quenelles, and croquant shell with raisin cream and raisin ice cream. I remember the wine was a local chardonnay, I think a 2011 Beaune blanc .  The setting was perfect with pink table linens, patterned fabric chairs, and attentive service by a seemingly countless staff. Of course, we later learned we had been accommodated without a reservation by this Michelin one-star restaurant.

We continued on to Cluny, where the former Benedictine monastery Abbey de Cluny was built in the Romanesque style in 940 AD, with three churches built in succession from the 10th to the early 12th centuries. Only parts of this massive abbey remain, but they are enough to give you a sense of how large it was at its peak.  The physical size of the abbey apparently reflected its importance in the world of the medieval church. As we learned in the 3D movie that was shown as part of the tour, the abbey was notable for its strict adherence to the Rule of St. Benedict, and Cluny became the leader of western monasticism. 

In 1790 during the French Revolution, the structure was mostly destroyed, with only a small part of the Abbey surviving.  But even today, the ruins with the virtual reality screens help one appreciate what an enormous abbey this was in its prime.

Virtual reality screen

Model of Cluny

Abbey of Cluny today

 We tried to tour the Museum  which was included in our ticket, but because it was less than a half hour until closing time, we were not permitted in.  Instead we chose to climb the "Cheese Tower," a local landmark that offers great views of the city and the abbey remains. It is 120 steps to the top of le Tour de Fromages where in days past the cheeses were put to dry or age.