High Gothic: Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg

 Tuesday, September 29 -- Another bright, sunny morning with the vineyard glowing outside our bathroom window. I decided to go for a 5-mile run through the vineyards, down the hill to Hunawihr, and then back through Zellenberg on the D1b, occasionally stepping of the road to let traffic go by. Workers were picking the late harvest grapes in the fields as I ran back into Riquewihr.

The River Ill

We drove to Strasbourg, about 70 kilometers or 45 minutes on the A35 superhighway. Following the signs for "centre ville" or  "Cathédrale" was sufficient direction to find our way into the city.  We parked in a public garage called Austerlitz near the Quai Saint-Nicolas.  In fact, the city center is on the Grande Île in the River Ill.  The Rhine is not far away, however. 



Well, it does not take too much walking before you turn a corner and there, just

beyond all the tourist shops, rises the towering (466 feet) reddish facade of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg.  Kind of takes your breath away.

We walked up for a closer look, and of course turned right to get a view of the flying buttresses.  This side is more Romanesque in architectural style, having been started in 1015.  



 
  

The inside of the cathedral is no less impressive, with a tall, steeply arched nave leading to the pulpit and the chancel, as well as stained glass windows dating back to the 1200's and 1400's.  We were told that these windows were removed during WWII and stored in a German salt mine.  they were returned to the Cathedral by the by the Monuments, Fine Arts and Archives section of the United States military -- "the Monuments men."

We paid for the tickets and waited about 45 minutes to see the famous 18-meter tall astronomical clock to strike.  Swiss watchmakers, sculptors, painters and creators of automatons all worked together to build this device.  At precisely 12:30 p.m. one angel sounds the bell while a second turns over an hourglass. Different characters, representing the ages of life (from a child to an old man) parade in front of Death. On the last level are the Apostles, passing in front of Christ. The clock shows much more than the official time; it also indicates solar time, the day of the week (each represented by a god of mythology), the month, the year, the sign of the zodiac, the phase of the moon and the position of several planets. Apparently it can even correctly calculate the date for Easter each year.

After all this hard work, we needed a coffee before setting out on more adventures.  The good news is that the cafes on the square in front of the cathedral do a pretty good business on a sunny morning.  We chose to be inside because it was just a little cool, but many seemed happy to soak up some sun. 

After refreshment, we walked off to the area called La Petite France.  Once the area of fishermen, tanners, and millers, today it is a well-preserved throwback to the old Strasbourg.  The Quai de la Petite France runs along the canal waters and there are nice views of the old houses.  We took some pictures there while searching for a good luncheon spot.  And the hunt for lunch took some doing, menu examination, and comparing of notes. 

La Petite France, Strasbourg

Our task was more difficult because it was a sunny day and many Strasbourgers were out enjoying the warmth. Eventually we found ourselves back on a street fairly close to the cathedral, but we did get a table and the tarte flambée was okay.  And, the wine was priced fairly.

As we drove back to Riquewihr, the idea of a wine tasting or dégustation seemed attractive to everyone.  It would be a chance to taste some of the characteristic wines produced by vignerons in Alsace – riesling, gewürztraminer, sylvaner and pinot noir. Every village we pass through is lined with wine cellars offering tastings.

 
Largely on Faye's recommendation, we turned in to the Trimbach estate in Ribeauvillé. After a couple of wrong turns in the work yard, we found the tasting room.  

The young lady was happy to help us, but she pointed out that we had to be quiet.  The owner was using the other side of the room to give a tasting to a group of wine buyers from America!  We could tell from what we overheard  that they were discussing wine very knowledgably.  

At one point Jean Trimbach came over, introduced himself, and offered us a taste of what he was showing the Americans -- a 2012 Selection de Vieiles Vignes riesling.  It was pretty fine. I was also impressed by the souvenir menus that graced the walls and other indications that the royal family of Sweden like Trimbach wines enough to serve them at family weddings and official state dinners.

We decided to take a few Trimbach bottles with us for "testing" back at the apartment in Riquewihr.  You know, just to be sure it is good stuff.

Back in Riquewihr we parked the car and wandered around the town a little.  As it was nearing six o'clock, the tourists were thinning out.  We planned to eat in the apartment, as I remember.

Bakery in Riquewihr

 
We did stop in the little bakery to buy some kugelhopf -- a a high, fluted, circular coffee bread that is apparently close to the hearts of Alsatians.  Dusted with powdered sugar just as it is sold, kugelhopf beckons from every bakery window.  

We discovered however that it is not sweet, but rather a neutral, plain flavor that could go fine with morning coffee or evening beer, or anything in between.