Thursday, December 5, 2013

Orne Harbour, Dorian Bay & Palmer Station, Antarctic Peninsula

Our extraordinary journey to Antarctica continues. This morning we woke up to a magnificent view of Orne Harbour, comprised of tall mountain peaks, glaciers flowing seaward, fresh white snow, and glittering reflections in the waters of the Gerlache Strait. Blue-eyed shags were seen flying across our bow.

After breakfast we made our approach to our first landing, half the guests decided to go Zodiac cruising, and the rest made the 245-foot hike up the steep and snowy hill to Spigot Peak. On the occasionally steep metamorphic rock, we saw several hundred pairs of chinstrap penguins sitting on their nests partially obscured by snow, as well as the occasional south polar and hybrid skuas. From the peak we had the chance for amazing panoramic photos of the Errera Channel, barely a cloud in sight. Also we had great views of the ship nestled in amongst the brash ice while the small Zodiacs motored through.

After lunch we sailed through the Neumayer Channel heading for our afternoon landing at Damoy Point in Dorian Bay, located in a cove on the northwest side of Wiencke Island, in the Palmer Archipelago. It was discovered by the 1903-5 French Antarctic Expedition, under Jean-Baptiste Charcot.

Located here is the famous Historic Site and Monument No 84, otherwise known as Damoy Hut, which served flights to and from British Rothera Base on Adelaide Island. Today it is now listed as a Historic Site and Monument and is maintained by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust.

The fast ice quickly built up and our expedition leader, Lisa Kelley wisely decided that the ice was too thick for a landing and our first kayak outing. Instead, we spent the afternoon enjoying the scenic views and looking for Weddell seals and killer whales.

We could hear the ice scraping along the side of the ship as we zigzagged in between small icebergs, heading for Palmer Research Station. Arriving late afternoon we launched a “rescue mission” picking up five residents who had been waiting for weeks for a ride back to Ushuaia, Argentina. We all watched from the bow as personnel and equipment were ferried to the ship by kayak and Zodiac.

After dinner we had a magnificent cruise through the Lemaire Channel, the yellow late evening sun glowing from the tall mountain peaks. It was another very special day on the Antarctic Peninsula, one that the guests would remember forever.


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